What Time Is Too Late To Go To Bed 2023

Four grapes in equal parts. Smells sweet, tastes dry.

Ben: Two ex-chefs blending four grapes in equal parts, like a recipe — two of them are modern fungus-resistant varieties you've never heard of, and that's fine. Eleven percent, wild ferment, nothing added, nothing taken out. The name is a question they actually answer: for farmers, probably 9 p.m. You can decide for yourselves.

In your glass: Light, dry and quick: eleven percent alcohol, zero sugar behind the sweet elderflower nose, and a green-apple snap that keeps the glass moving. Water-light in the mouth, made by two former chefs who blend the way they cook. Pick it for apéro hour when the evening might run long; if you want a rich, mouth-filling white, go the other way.

Serve it: An hour in the fridge; let it warm a little by the second glass. — Cloudy on purpose — that’s the unfiltered style, not a fault.

You’ll probably love it if: You drink white for refreshment, not homework — apéro hour, second bottle plausible.

Skip it if: Want rounder and calmer → Bilaire Blanco (€9.90). Want a cleaner, more classic white → Ellermann-Spiegel Sauvignon Blanc Gutswein (€9.50).